Monday, 17 March 2008

Days 52 to 62 - Uluru, Great Ocean Road & Melbourne

Day 52 – Uluru to Coober Pedy
Thought we’d get up at the correct time today and hot footed it to the sunrise viewing point at Uluru. Drove past the masses and found a quieter spot with an Aussie who was expecting the sun to rise from behind Uluru – he seemed pretty disappointed!

Again, the sun brought beautiful changes of colour and lots of flies though we were far better prepared today with our fly nets – a great purchase.

You could also see the Olgas in the distance which made for some more great photos. Then a final farewell drive around Uluru (saw 3 camels – alive this time) before heading back to the camp site where we treated ourselves to Bacon & Egg rolls a la Dave.

Showered, packed up and then set off for the return drive. Couple of fuel stops and a lay-by lunch stop later we pulled up in the opal mining town of Coober Pedy where most houses are sunken underground to escape the heat. The town is the set for films like Mad Max & Pitch Black….. basically, a ghost town in the middle of the desert.

Luckily the camp site had an icy cold swimming pool so we had a dip before M cooked a delicious curry – Yum!

Both pretty tired after a long days driving so we fell asleep pretty early…. Again!

D x

Day 53 – Coober Pedy to Port Pirie

Not much to hang around to see in Coober Pedy so we set off fairly early with hopes of reaching Adelaide, some 1000km’s down the road. Probably a bit ambitious so we ended up calling it a day in Port Pirie (about 250km north of Adelaide) but not before visiting the longest wooden jetty in Australia at Port Germaine.

We found a nice spot next to a lake but the heat was almost unbearable as were the swarms of mosquitoes.

Eventually we dozed off though the night which didn’t bring a great deal of relief from the heat so we couldn’t wait to get nearer the coast for some cooler weather… possibly the most uncomfortable nights sleep so far.

D x

Day 54 – Port Pirie to Robe
Woke up for breakfast and a mosquitoe bite count – about 40 combined we reckon! Ouch!
The milk was off so we had our morning cup of tea en-route at a service station. The nice man behind the counter was instilling in us the importance of wearing a good hat as the O-Zone over Australia is depleted. He then went on to try and sell us some for $50 each… and I thought he was just being friendly! (we didn’t buy any)

Soon we were south of Adelaide and stopped off at Mount Lofty Summit for great views over Adelaide and the surrounding areas.

No rest for the wicked so we soon hit the road once more bound for Coorong National Park. We were a little disappointed as you couldn’t get to the best parts without a 4x4 but we did do a walk to a Pelican lookout 'hide' at Jack Point only to discover that it wasn’t the breeding season and that they were all somewhere else… still, it was a nice walk.
We passed through Kingston Southeast which is home to Larry the Lobster, a 50 ft high lobster who welcomes you in to the town as you drive in from the north. (Australia seems to do a lot of things like these; big lobster, banana, pineapple… even a giant Ned Kelly!)

Finally arrived at Robe at around 6pm and found a nice site right next to the beach so we hot footed down to the sea (ocean) and I managed to get Mandy to have a dip despite it being pretty cold. Finally, we were both cool. I told her that it was called the Southern Ocean. She didn’t believe me claiming that that was a ‘crap’ name for an ocean. Needless to say, I was proved right when we looked at the map later… J I did feel a little smug.

Dinner in the camper and then a short stroll into town for a beer. I think M even wore trousers as the temperature had dropped significantly. Quite busy with a good atmosphere as it was a bank holiday weekend.

Another long and enjoyable day.

D x

Day 55 – Robe to Mount Gambier
Up at a reasonable time and then did some internet stuff before setting off for the day. Went to the coast near to town and walked around a headland or 2 to the Obelisk which is a marker for sailing ships. Beautiful scenery and we even saw a big lizard en-route. (we were however on the lookout for snakes after being warned by the camp site owner. She thought it wise to warn us as we were after all “internationals!”)











First stop on the days drive was at Beachport where we stopped briefly at Siloam Lake (very salty lake) where we “floated like we’d never floated before!” It was very bizarre, lying back, hands behind head, feet crossed and floating on the surface with ease.
M stood on a wasp and got stung whilst showering after our quick dip/float but luckily the pain seemed to ease fairly quickly.

Stopped off in town for a few supplies and yet more fuel and then it was on to Mount Gambier via a huge windfarm (literfally 100’s of turbines) which was pretty impressive.

Arrived in Mount Gambier at around 3ish and checked in to a site where we got the last powered hookup before setting off to explore the area.

First to Umpherston Sinkhole which is a formal garden set in a deep sinkhole. (A sinkhole is a piece of land that has been undermined by rainwater over years and years and then finally collapses in on itself leaving a large ‘hole’)
Not many people around but there were loads of bees. We could see their honey combs hanging in the crevices in the rocks.

We then drove up to view the volcanic lakes. Our first stop was Blue Lake which has the most ridiculously blue water you’ll ever see. Then on to Valley Lake which was home to lots of families playing with their speed boats water-skiiing, jet biking etc… so we sat back and did some quality people watching and judging. (the water skiers that is)

Then it was back to the site for the usual; dinner, dip in the pool, read and then bed! (very hot again)

D x

Day 56 – Mount Gambier to Port Fairy

Up and out and straight away to the nearby Englebrecht Caves for 9:30. Waited there for a while until we were told that it wouldn’t be open today due to an illness in the family…. Sounded like a case of a bad hangover to us! So we headed off to Valley Lake again for a wander around their small wildlife park which bordered the lake and had boardwalks through the reeds etc…. Saw lots of birds, a few kangaroos, a pottaroo (a small kangaroo) and the highlight was a sleepy koala high up in one of the eucalyptus trees. (We later learned that there are only 2 koalas in the park so we were lucky to spot him)

Both pleased with our koala spotting we drove and then walked the final steep bit to Centenary Tower, a lookout tower (now used to spot bushfires) which had fantastic 360 degree views of the area. (Visibility up to 80km on a clear day)

Spoke with the friendly guy on the door who told us about a few attractions that were ‘sort of’ on our route if we had the time. He seemed very knowledgeable about the area and gave us some good tips.

The best one was when he asked “Are you cave people?” I felt like replying that we’d evolved a bit personally but I kept that one to myself.

So we treated ourselves to an ice-cream after the steep climb and headed off for the Princes Margaret Rose Caves. It was then that we both agreed that we weren’t really cave people and decided to head straight to Cape Bridgewater on the coast. (That and the $12 entry fee)
Got to Cape Bridgewater and headed up the coastal footpath which was about a 2hr return walk. Amazing views across the bay and we reached the highest coastal point in Victoria. (Our 3rd state/territory of the road trip) There was a viewing platform at the end of the walk from which we could see a seal colony playing in the surf which was great and made the walk so much more worthwhile. We also saw snakes and large cricket/butterfly insects with bright yellow wings!
We then drove the short distance to a petrified forest (that wasn’t actually a forest, just rock formations that look like one) and saw a blowhole (which didn’t blow). Both a bit disappointing but nice to look at all the same.

For the first time in a long time the temperature was more than bearable – I think we may even have worn a long sleeved top as the temperature plummeted to 25!

Eventually arrived at Port Fairy so we booked into the park, settled down and relaxed for the evening and enjoyed being able to sit still without sweating.

D x

Day 57 – Port Fairy to Port Campbell
I woke Mandy up by reading (I didn’t realise I was reading out loud) so we had breakfast, went into town for a cup of tea and spot of internetting before we started on the ship-wreck walk. When we got to the start of the walk it was clear that we weren’t actually going to see any shipwrecks so we decided to go for a run along the beach instead. We both really enjoyed it and vowed that we’d run every day from now on…?

En-route to Port Campbell we stopped off at Warnambool for lunch at Logans Beach. It’s in a large bay which is where whales are often spotted although not at this time of year unfortunately.

Passed an outdoor activity shop and both treated ourselves to Camel Packs ahead of our planned treks in Canada (a bargain for the pair of us).

Finally we arrived at the long awaited Great Ocean Road.

Somewhat ironically it starts at Peterborough though it couldn’t be more different than ours.


We first stopped off at the Bay of Islands where there are lots of limestone stacks left in the bay whilst the headland retreats. We walked down to an amazing beach which we had all to ourselves. Got a bit wet as the tide was coming in pretty quick. – awesome!

Driving out of Peterborough we saw a small group of Pelicans so we felt some sort of payback after our efforts at Jacks Point. We then drove along what can only be described as the most beautiful coastline. We couldn’t drive more than a couple of km’s before pulling over at various scenic lookout points or scenic walks. Our many stops included The Grotto, London Bridge, the Arch, Blowhole & Thunder Cave.All of these are amazing limestone rock formations created by the wind and the sea.

Both pretty tired by this point, we pulled into Port Campbell, reserved a powered site and then drove the final few kilometres to the eagerly awaited 12 Apostles. (12 enormous limestone stacks sticking out of the ocean) Although you can only see 6 of them from this view point it was incredible. We took loads of photos, none of which do it justice. We contemplated waiting for sunset but as it was 2 hours away we headed back to the site and agreed to go back tomorrow for another look.

Back at the site we rewarded ourselves with a couple of beers and then out for dinner. We found a great little restaurant round the corner called Waves where I had lamb and Mandy had trout…. Delicious especially when washed down with a bottle of wine.. Ahhhh!

D x

Day 58 – Port Campbell to Apollo Bay
Usual morning routine saw us leave by around 9:30 and stopping off at Loch Ard Gorge (the site of a famous Australian ship wreck) on our way to the 12 (6) Apostles.

Once we’d checked that they were still all there we took another load of photos and then headed the 0.5km along the coast to the Gibson Steps which are carved into the cliff face and allow you access to one of the beaches alongside the apostles. Absolutely amazing setting. Nice stroll along the beach although the sun was hiding from us a little bit. M didn’t quite manage to avoid all the waves and got a bit of a soaking on one, perhaps two occasions.


Back on the Great Ocean Road for a while we then took an inland detour to The Otway Fly, a 25m high elevated walkway through the canopy of the rainforest with a 47m high lookout tower which we discovered swayed quite a lot. Despite Mandy’s fear of heights/falling she did it all, and with only a few tears. Once back on solid ground we walked back to the centre for an ice-cream and tried to spot the resident platypus on our way… No joy!

We pulled into Apollo Bay and got the last powered site in the town – very lucky! We wandered down to the beach where we rested our weary feet and read for an hour or so. Then, as the evening drew in, we wandered along the sea front and had fish and chips. (both been craving it for a few days so it was long overdue)

Back to the camper for bed for the final time!

D x

Day 59 - Apollo Bay to Melbourne
Lazy start to the day then hit the road for the final time. The stretch of coast from Apollo Bay hugs the coastline for about 50km’s and requires a bit more concentration. Luckily M was driving so I could just enjoy the views.

Came around one sharp bend to find about 5 or 6 cars pulled up in a layby with people staring up into the trees. So we pulled over and spotted about half a dozen koalas snoozing and stretching in nearby trees – brilliant. Proper wild koalas at last! So we got loads of photos, M clambering through bushes and trees to get the best shot. They seemed only too pleased to pose for photos so we got plenty.


We arrived in a town called Lorne where we headed inland for about 10km to Erskine Falls, a 38m waterfall in the forest. Being the end of summer it was more a trickle than a raging waterfall but still worth the journey. Then a quick stop at Teddy’s Lookout for a view back along the Great Ocean Road.




On to Airey’s Inlet where we wandered up to the lighthouse, couldn’t go in as there was a school trip arriving so on to the world famous surfing spot, Bells Beach! Both watched as the serious surfers rode some pretty big waves. (Thought of you Rob!) Stopped off at Torquay for a bit of shopping and then it was the final push to Melbourne – hooray!

Arrived to an empty house where we let ourselves in and unpacked the van (which by the way we’d called Smudge!).

Leah (Mandy’s friend from when she lived in Japan) soon arrived back from work and in no time we were drinking beers/wine and throwing snags on the barbie… finally an aussie bar-b-q! Drank, ate and chatted into the early hours before crashing out in a BED at last! What luxury!


D x

Day 60 – Melbourne
A late start (surprise surprise) and we were off to return the camper before getting a tour of Melbourne courtesy of Leah who’d taken the day off work.

First stop was a Japanese restaurant for lunch where M shook off the remains of her hangover. The heat seemed to be following us as it reached 39 – absolutely sweltering!

Shuffled around town wherever there was shade and visited the cathedral, Federation Square where we stopped in at the centre for visual arts. Then Flinders Street Station, ice cream at South Bank on the Yarra River and then up to the 88th floor of the Eureka Tower for views of the city. (could see the Formula 1 practice session at Albert Park which was pretty cool) then back to earth for a wander up to the public library (nice and cool in there) and then back home on the train. The city has a great feel about it and seems very relaxed.

Time for a quick drink before getting back for another bar-b-q and a fairly early night as we had an early start ahead of us.

D x

Day 61 – Melbourne & Anglesea
Up at 7 for a 2 hour drive back along the coast to Anglesea where the 3 of us checked in for our surf lesson. Kitted up with wetsuits and a board we had about 11 seconds of instruction before waddling out into a fairly big surf to give it a go. I seemed to have more success at first but I think it was because I had the bigger board. Once M and I swapped we were all getting up on our knees and then our feet and can honestly say we were surfing! We all enjoyed it though found it very tiring, especially on the arms.

Drove back to Melbourne and stopped off for lunch en-route for much needed sustinence. On the way back we stopped off at St Kilda, the trendy beach part of town where we wandered around for a couple of hours, had another ice-cream, walked along the beach and down the pier before driving back to Leah’s.

Hour or so relaxing and showering before getting the train into town for dinner. We went to a Thai restaurant on Chapel St, the drinking part of town. The meal was fantastic in a really great atmosphere. M bit into a chilli which looked painful. Leah’s brothers girlfriend Elise (nicknamed Scribbles) joined us after for some dodgy wine before getting a train to the centre of town for Karaoke. M and Leah were in their element and sang till gone 2 in the morning. I’m afraid I sang a couple too for which I can only apologise.

Taxi ride home and then straight to sleep… another late one.

D x

Day 62 – Melbourne
Very lazy morning as predicted before Leah & M drove to Chadstone (nearby shopping centre) for an hour or 2 before I joined them around 2:30 at the cinema to see The Bucket List with Jack Nicholson & Morgan Freeman. Really good film + it was air conditioned… relief!

Back to Leah’s before meeting up with Leah’s brother and Scribbles and Leah’s Mum & step-dad Clint at a Vietnamese restaurant. Very noisy and full of locals with lots of atmosphere and really good food. Couple of hours spent eating and chatting, then back to Leah’s for bed, all pretty tired.

D x

3 comments:

Mel said...

You seem to have had a great time in sunny Aus. I'm so glad that you got to see wild Koalas. Great photograph!

Thank you both for the DVD's for my birthday (Mandy, you know me so well!) Had a great day and got loads of pressies and cards at work as well as a few cards when I got home.

Liverpool are through to next stage of champions league as I'm sure you already know after beating Inter Milan and weve got Arsenal in the next round! I must say, I'm quite relieved we haven't got Chelsea again.

Say hi to Madeline & Ben when you go.

Love to you both Mel xxx

food foibles said...

What stunnng scenery and what a brave girl to go across the bridge! Not sure I would have made it. Rainy and windy today, J and I are on leave after today until 31st - must be Easter. Have a wonderful time with Ben and Madeline. Take care.
Lots of love xxx

Ron Brown said...

Well; what a journey! From sunrise over Uluru to Karaoke in a Melbourne restaurant in only 10 days! And inbetween - M searching for Mel Gibson in desert ghost town, saltlake bathing, surfing, Koalas, alive camel packs(?) & M showing her contempt for vertigo - yet again! Not to mention the unbearable heat, wasp stings, plagues of flies & mosquitoes. Oh well - it's only a holiday & I dare say that the continuum of cold beers, cool swims, fun & good food & BBQs with friends, shopping & spectacular scenery along the way would help to make it all bearable. Much love from a cold, wet & windy Burnham; as you fly off to sunny SA. Take care of each other. xx